A journey to the Abode of Clouds.

 

Serene calm surroundings, a picturesque green lake, crystal clear waters, smooth colourful rocks visible underneath, ripples of sunlight and a boat levitating above.

Yes, it’s exactly the picture you are thinking of – one that probably made many of us put that place on our bucket list! I did too…and it lay in my bucket list for a long time till we could finally pack our bags and head to the place in question!

The abode of clouds – Meghalaya – finally made it to our travel list! Never having explored the North-Eastern part of our country, being completely unfamiliar with the topography and not knowing what to expect, we decided to put our trust in ‘Unwind at Unexplored’ who knows the land like the back of his hand. Having been the eternal planner and organiser of trips in our family, it was a tough yet welcome change, not worrying about the planning, and learning to relax for most parts of it!

Travelling to Meghalaya.

The fastest way is to fly, though you could take a bus or train or even drive all the way! Shillong has an airport, so if your city has a direct flight, that would be easiest way. However, we decided to take a flight to Guwahati, as the flights are not only cheaper and more frequent but the duration of flight is also much lesser.

Duration of stay.

One week is a good duration, if you want to explore the place at a leisurely pace, but a minimum of four days is required. Anything less will not only tire you out but also force you to leave out many places.

Best time to visit.

Ideally, October to May is the best season to visit. The rains gradually decrease by October. The climate is nippy till January. Gradually, it gets drier by March.

If you love monsoon, you could also visit in the rainy season. The pros are that the waterfalls are grand and in full flow during monsoon, but the cons are that you might not be allowed to get into the water for your own safety, plus the rains and thundershowers might make it difficult to go sight-seeing.  

We, however, travelled in the beginning of March, and the falls were not in their full glory. The land was mostly dry and barren. However, the crowd was very less, and in some places, we were the only ones around. Sometimes it could be scary but the calm it offered was also unparalleled.

I would vote for October-November because the falls are still full from the rains, clouds are white and fluffy and floating around you, the scenery is breathtaking and the climate is ideal for travelling.

Day 1 - Bangalore to Guwahati.

It was little over four hours when we landed at the Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport at Guwahati.

Taking an early morning flight gave us a whole day in Guwahati. There aren’t many places to explore in Guwahati, but the Kamakhya temple was on our list. We later added the cruise on the Brahmaputra River to end the day.

Guwahati is pretty crowded, roads are narrow and dusty, and traffic moves at snail pace, but we Bangaloreans are already trained marshals at navigating through slow moving traffic! So, no sweat there!

It is best to book a car end to end – one that picks you up from the airport, takes you around for the week and drops you back to the airport.

Kamakhya temple.

This temple is one of the ‘Shaktipeeths’. There are two different ways to obtain the darshan of the Goddess. The main ‘peetha’ is underground and darshan could take anywhere between 5-7 hours or more. Tokens for darshan are given in the morning itself, before 12 noon. If you are short of time, you could walk in without a queue for the mukha darshan.

The temple has a certain, mystical aura around it. Goats are sacrificed in the premises, and it was a bit traumatic for me to see.

Cruise.

We had time on our hands, and some local friends told us about the Al Fresco cruise on the Brahmaputra River. Go without any expectations though! If you expect something on the lines of Santa Monica in Goa or the Fort Kochi cruise, you’ll be disappointed.

They have three kinds of cruises - a half an hour-long sunset cruise, an early evening cruise and a dinner cruise. We booked ourselves on the dinner cruise. The prices are a bit steep, but you get to enjoy good food and the cultural richness of Assam - the music, dances and songs adding to the beauty of the evening as you sail on the tranquil waters. 

Day 2 -Guwahati to Cherrapunji (Sohra).

There was a certain excitement in the heart as we drove to Cherrapunji the next morning – perhaps it was the thrill of exploring the unknown! Sohra is Cherrapunji’s original name – changed to the present by the British. 

The roads are excellent and the drive is pleasant. You get to enjoy endless winding hills, and beautiful scenery. If you have a weak stomach, you’d want to carry an anti-emetic to prevent travelling sickness. However, the curves not as steep as the ones in Shimla or Munnar. I found it bearable for most parts.   

Umiam lake.

On the way, our first stop was the Umiam lake. It is a huge expanse of blue and green that just takes your breath away! And remember this only the beginning of this journey!

This lake is closer to Shillong, so if you are driving from Shillong to Sohra, you’ll find it on your way too. There are various activities like boating, kayaking etc, but we didn’t stop by for any of these, though we did soak in the beauty from a high view point from where it looked even more beautiful. 

Mawphlang Sacred Forest.

This is the place that I left my heart in! And there it stays even today!

Maw means stone and you’ll find plenty of places with the prefix ‘Maw’ all over Meghalaya. Phlang means grassy.

Spread over acres and acres of land (193 acres is what the guide told us), the Mawphlang Sacred Forest is a home to hundreds of sacred, medicinal trees, birds and animals. The guide took us on a short trek about half a kilometer into the forest, and I was left mesmersised by the faint aroma of the flora and the melodious sounds of the birds and insects as we walked.

The entrance into the forest felt like a secret door to an altogether different universe! It made me forget about the world outside, albeit for a little while. We were told that we aren’t permitted to take back even a dry twig or leaf outside and we did abide by the rules of the tribe, taking back only memories.

A flower that was in full bloom was the deep red coloured and very sacred, rhododendron. Apparently, the flower has medicinal usage and is also used in cooking. We also got to have a taste of sour, citrusy flower.

We were so reluctant to leave the place that long after all pictures had been clicked and everything that had to be said had been said, we stayed put, lolling on the ground for a very long time, simply taking in the sky, forests, hills and everything that we saw around us. Only the temptation of food (our stomachs were growling!) could finally bring us back on our feet!

We got to enjoy a traditional Khasi lunch – one of the most nutritional and tasty foods I’ve enjoyed – a special green onion rice, two kinds of cooked vegetables (broccoli and cabbage, potato and cauliflower), two kinds of salads, a spicy red sauce, a very yummy mixed vegetable pickle, tasty dal and rice. I never knew I could whip up such an appetite!

The guide told us an interesting fact about the matrilineal lineage of the tribes. The mother is the head of the family and her youngest daughter not only stays with her husband in her maternal home and has the responsibility of taking care of her parents but also inherits all the property, though the other daughters may get a share. The sons have to move out to their wives’ homes after they get married!

We also learnt that Meghalaya is home to three major tribes – the Khasis, the Jaintias and the Garos. The hills are also divided between the three tribes with the Khasis occupying the central part of the hill land and the Jaintias and Garos on either side. The culture and language of the Khasis and the Jaintias are also similar while Garos are a totally different tribe.

It was really difficult to drag ourselves out of the place!

Stay.

We stayed in Sohra which in on the East Khasi hills. Most places of tourist interest are in this belt though you’ll find a few on the Jaintia hill too. Contrary to common opinion, it does not rain continuously in Sohra. Māwsynrām holds the crown for the wettest place on earth and it does not rain all year through here too.

The sun rises as early as 5.30 am and sets early too. So, it was pitch dark at 6pm, by the time we checked into our resort. We got to admire the beauty of the resort only next morning.

I observed that most resorts have very few rooms, not more than 6-8. Hence it would be advisable to book rooms first if you want a comfortable stay.

Also, a guide is mandatory to understand the cultural richness of the place as well as to move around effortlessly.

Day 3 – Arwah caves, Mawsmai Cave and Nokalikai falls.

 

The Arwah Caves are said to be about 65 million years old and were apparently below the sea at some point before rising up to form mountains. You can see some fossils of small creatures on the walls of the cave.

The walk up to the cave is pretty interesting and makes for some great pictures. The caves are dark after walking inside to a certain point so you had better not venture in without a guide, as it is very difficult to mark your way out. There’s a lot of walking and back bending as you navigate inside, but the thrill of being in a place like that is beyond what words can describe.   

The Mawsmai caves have some amazing stalactite formations and are not as strenuous to navigate as the Arwah caves.

We also learnt that Meghalaya is famous for pineapples and we couldn’t wait to try one the moment we found it outside the Mawsmai caves. True to their popularity, they were the juiciest and sweetest pineapples I’ve ever eaten in my whole life! This was just the start, because we went on to eat pineapples at every given opportunity during our entire stay!

We later visited the Anthropology Museum run by Ramakrishna Mission. It is a very interesting place to learn about the various tribes, culture and way of living, not only in Meghalaya but also in the entire North-Eastern part of our country. 

The Nokalikai falls is a short drive from the caves and has a gory history behind it, which haunted me for quite some time! Being the month of March, the falls were dry, with a very thin stream of water and were not very impressive. But our guide, Ban, told us that they are great when in full flow. The scenery, of course, is pretty impressive and I could imagine how majestic the place might look during the monsoon.

Meghalaya is home to spices like pepper and cinnamon, and also to the world’s best turmeric – lakadong turmeric – which has an exceptionally high curcumin content. You can buy them here at the shops outside the falls.

Day 4 – Waterfalls, waterfalls and more waterfalls!

Meghalaya is full of beautiful waterfalls! We went to the Lyngksiar and Mawsawah waterfalls. We also got into the cold and refreshing waters at the Lyngksiar falls. It changed the definition of ‘cold and refreshing’ in my dictionary! You really have to get in to know what I mean. The waters are so clear that you can see the bottom of the lake.

The waterfalls might not have been in full force but we didn’t mind at all. I couldn’t feel my toes and yet I didn’t want to come out! The Lyngksiar falls are great for photography and we got some of our best clicks here. The Mawsawah is smaller yet beautiful. You probably might not be allowed to swim in the monsoon and the winters might be way too cold to get in. 

We ended our day with a visit to the Garden of Caves. It was still under construction and I didn’t really find it enjoyable.

Day 5 – The Living Double Root Bridge

This was by far the most strenuous day of our visit. You need to be really fit to navigate through this. The path to the double root bridge is 3500 steps long; one way. It is best to start early to avoid the heat. It is advisable to wear comfortable loose-fitting clothes, goggles, and a cap and carry water bottles and some light snacks with you. Also, do not carry anything that is heavy or not needed – backpacks and bags are better off in your car.  

Ask yourself if you’ll enjoy the long trek to the place as much as the end location before you begin. Some people undertake the trek hoping to see something spectacular at the end. We met quite a few trekkers who told us they were left disappointed as the place did not meet their expectation. Don’t focus just on the end, enjoy the trek too.

The steps are quite steep and most people rent a bamboo stick for better support. You literally have to climb down an entire mountain and climb up a part of another before you reach the root bridge.

The breathtaking, eco-friendly, marvel of tribal engineering – the double root bridge – has been cleverly constructed to enable people cross the river when it is in full spate.

The falls and river weren’t overflowing when we visited, but we got to enjoy a natural fish spa in the shallow waters! Having the tiny fish nibble at our feet while we relaxed our tired feet in the cold water, was an amazing experience! 

Day 6 – Dawki, Bangladesh border, Mawlynnong.

On our final day in Meghalaya, we planned to start early and go to Dawki and Shnongpdeng and enjoy the water sports. Unfortunately, we learnt that two elderly people had passed away in Shnongpdeng and hence all activities were closed. I had never heard something like this happening in a tourist place. But our guide told us that the tribal people are very close knit and the entire community turns up for the funeral and all activities are closed. On one hand we found it admirable that such societies exist in these times, but on the other hand we were sad that we could not get to enjoy the water sports we had planned for that day.

We, however, did go boating at the Umngot river at Dawki. The cool, clear, green-blue waters, and the imposing rock mountains on either side made it an unforgettable 45-minute boat ride across it.

There’s also that ‘spot’ which made me plan this place in the first place! I was imagining an entire river to be crystal clear and expected to take pictures of us levitating in the water, but apparently, there’s only a small area where water is shallow and the bottom can be seen. Nevertheless, even that was a big highlight, never having seen anything like that before!

We visited the India-Bangladesh border too and clicked some pictures.

Finally, we visited Asia’s cleanest village – Mawlynnong. It’s quite an example they’ve set by keeping the place spic and span. It made me think that if they can, why couldn’t we?

Day 7 – Meghalaya to Guwahati to Bangalore.

We originally had planned to go to Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary in Guwahati, on the last day, however, our flight got rescheduled to an earlier time slot and we weren’t ready to leave Sohra too early in the morning to make it to Pobitora and reach airport on time. But if you have time, you could go to Pobitora and see the one-horned rhino. The locals claim that there’s a 100% rhino spotting here.

We did buy some lovely Assam tea before leaving the place.

 

Some takeaways.

There’s a stark contrast between other tourist places and the North-East.

These places are virtually untouched and pristine. There are no crowds thronging the places and it feels calm and serene to enjoy the entire scenery all by yourself! Imagine being the only group enjoying in an amazing lake under a cold waterfall! No queues, no noise, no pollution.

The food is great and we also found food without onion and garlic in every restaurant we ate at. Somehow, the water tastes great too! The entry tickets are minimal and there are spotlessly clean toilets everywhere.

The people are extremely courteous and simple. They are very down to earth and smile a lot. We were touched by the hospitality.

This actually felt like a vacation. We weren’t rushed to move from one place to another, life moved at a leisurely pace, we ate well, slept well, and we felt rested and relaxed at the end of the trip.

Have you visited the North-East? Would you like to share your experience? 

Paradise Island -Bali

 A vacation by the ocean has always been my idea of a relaxing holiday. The waves gently rolling before crashing on the shore, the briny wind blowing through the hair, messing it up, and the unending expanse of various shades of blue stretching far and beyond what one can see - is truly what sets my mind free! One can almost hear the song of the sea, melodious and soothing. A vacation to Bali promised all this and more as we packed our bags to the land of idyllic charm and glorious sunsets. 

Negotiating the distance:

There are no direct flights to Bali from India. Almost all carriers have one-stop flights and the duration of flight can vary from 8 hours to 11 hours depending on your layover time. Flights aren’t cheap, but if you book in advance you could save a few precious bucks. 

Visa:

You can easily get Visa on arrival in Bali. It cost us about 32 euros for each Visa.

A copy of the certificate which shows that you are fully vaccinated against COVID is also mandatory.

You can complete the e-customs declaration before you start your journey and carry the bar code generated as a printed copy. That way you'll avoid standing in line for immigration for too long. Here's the link to it: e-customs

Moving around:

Once you arrive in Bali, it is best to hire a local taxi service to take you around. Taxis could cost upward of IDR 7lac or INR 4000 per day. Our driver Nyoman was an amiable fellow, who did his best to talk to us in English, patiently answering our queries and driving us for well over 12 hours per day. The roads are narrow and hence navigating takes hours. But the best thing I noticed was that no one ever broke lane discipline nor did I hear a single vehicle honking. 

Currency: 

IDR or Indonesian Rupiah is accepted for transactions but you could also use Euros or Dollars as easily. We, however, did not find the best rates for Indian rupees, and hence decided to exchange our Euros for IDR instead of INR. The smaller traders prefer to deal in cash. Many places like restaurants, entrance to various temples, parks etc., supermarkets and malls however, accept credit cards. You will be paying an entrance fee to every single place you visit. 

It made me feel like a millionaire, paying for things in lacs! One T-shirt? 1lac IDR - which is roughly INR 550! 

Places to stay:

We stayed at a villa -  Villa Lautan Biru Bingin, with a private pool in South Kuta that we had booked through Airbnb. Kuta is closer to the airport but Ubud is the hub of tourist attractions. Many places of tourist interest are near Ubud. Travelling can be a lot slower staying so far away from the city. However, if you are looking for a relaxing vacation, Kuta is the right place to be. 

Food:

Bali has plenty of Indian restaurants. You also get Jain and vegan options at most restaurants.

We had a working kitchen at the villa, so we carried ready to cook meals for breakfast and dinner, and ate at Indian restaurants in the afternoon.

Cruising around Bali:

Day 1:

Tanah Lot temple:

We visited this historic temple on the very first day of our stay in Bali. We were out of the Ngurah Rai Airport at Denpasar by afternoon and decided to visit Tanah Lot before retiring to the villa. 

Tanah Lot is one of the best places in Bali to capture the beautiful sunset. The temple or ‘pura’ as it is called, is dedicated to the Sea God. The temple itself is atop a rock formation, about 200m into the sea. You must wait for the waves to recede and quickly crossover to the temple. The sun looked like a huge reddish-orange ball as it painted the sky crimson before diving into the waters! I have never seen a sun so big! 

There are plenty of shops dotting the way where you can buy plenty of stuff. Make sure to bargain to one-third the price quoted! Go early by around 3.30 pm so that you can shop till you drop, capture beautiful pictures in daylight and finally walk to the temple by 6pm to view the sunset. Shops close by 7pm. 

Day 2:

White water Rafting at Ubud: 

It was undoubtedly quite an adventure rafting at the Ayung river at Ubud. The 10 km stretch takes anywhere between 2 to 2.5 hours to cross and is interspersed with a lot of beautiful scenery to soak in. It has medium rapids for most of the parts. 

We went rafting on the second day of our tour but realised that it was a huge mistake. One needs to descend about 500 unevenly spaced steps of varying depth and my legs almost gave way even before the rafting began! Climbing up another 250 steps after rafting is certainly not what I was prepared for! I spent the rest of my tour in Bali limping. 

Do not miss this wonderful activity at any cost, but schedule it on your last day so that you minimise the strain on your legs. 

Carry your swimwear. There are changing rooms to get into and out of your sporting gear. They also provide clean towels, a meal and pictures taken on the way for a price. 

Bali Swing: 

The Bali Swing is another wonderful attraction! You can enjoy swinging across a carpet of lush green from a considerable height. You can get on the swing alone or with your partner. You can also hire a dress with a long trail and capture the lovely moments on film as you swing in the breeze! 

You can stop to interact with the Luwak and buy some expensive Kopi Luwak, which in case you are wondering, is prepared from coffee seeds ingested and pooped by the Luwak. It is said to give the coffee a unique aroma. 

There are plenty of other attractions in Ubud like the Ubud Palace, Rice terraces and monkey forest. We decided to skip all of that as the rafting and swing took up our entire day. If you have an extra day to spare, you could go back to Ubud and enjoy the above and also shop at the market-place.  

Mall:

We ended the day shopping for souvenirs at the Krishna Oleh Oleh mall on our way back to the villa. The mall has a huge and beautiful statue of Krishna at the entrance. You can find a lot of gifts to carry back home to your loved ones.  

Day 3 : 

Water sports at Nusa Dua: 

Water sports is huge in Bali. You’ll find surfers coming in from Australia and other places enjoying the breeze and the waves. You’ll need at least half a day if you choose to enjoy all the sports. Bargaining

is a must here too. To give you an example, we bargained a $75 parasailing experience to $30 and were successful in landing it at $35! 

You can ride a jet-ski, or a fly-board, go scuba diving ,or snorkeling or if you are afraid of going deep into the sea, choose a dive walker which is great for beginners. You can ask for an instructor for all sports at no extra cost, if you are scared to go alone.

 

   

Uluwatu temple:

This is another great spot to capture the sunset. The temple is dedicated to Rudra and sits atop a cliff with waves crashing at its feet. It is believed that the powers of the trinity - Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva - merge here. You can take a climb up to the temple and click pictures but entering the sanctum is prohibited except for worshippers. Short clothing is prohibited and one is required to cover themselves with a sarong given at the entrance if the clothing is not suitable.  . 

    

Kecak dance: 

In the same premises as the temple, you can also watch the acclaimed Kecak Fire dance. There are two shows at 6pm and 7pm. Buy tickets for the show before you explore the temple and get in line for the show just as you finish exploring.

This dance is an enactment of the Ramayana. Amidst chanting by a troupe of 75 male dancers, you can witness the golden deer Maricha ensnare Rama, while Sita gets kidnapped by Ravana. Though it is a story we are very familiar with, yet watching artists dressed elegantly as Rama, Sita, Ravana, Hanuman, Jatayu, Lakshmana and other characters, takes you to another world, enthralling you with their dance and expressions. 

Day 4:

  

GWK or Garuda Wishnu Kencana cultural centre:

This temple dedicated to the Kencana or Vahana (transportation vehicle) of Vishnu - Garuda, is a must see spot. You can spend at least half a day here clicking amazing pictures of the huge Garuda statue, rock formations and natural beauty.

Hire a buggy which will drop you at the cultural centre and then take another buggy to the museum.

You can take couple photographs by professional photographers, dressed in Balinese costume or family pictures by professionals captured in specially designed studios. You can also watch up to 15 performances if time permits and enjoy lunch at the in-house restaurants.   

Kuta beach: 

After GWK, we headed to Kuta, to relax at the beach and also street shop. The entire area is filled with shops. We found a 100% cotton store selling pure whites. It was quite a find and we splurged on all kinds of white clothes that had an amazing feel and wear quality. 

Day 5:

We decided to do nothing except relax on our last day in Bali before heading back to the airport. The villa was amazing and we could have happily spent another day or two simply idling in the villa. 

What I loved about Bali:

What’s not to love! Every bit of Bali was amazing, the experiences were varied and fulfilling. 

I noticed that most houses had a huge Ganesha Idol at their doorstep. The in-house temple called pura is usually placed in the garden or outside the house and consists of a tall pillar with a seat for the deity. Every morning, the housekeeper, named Made, brought in a plate with a daily offering called canang sari - a small square shaped box made of tender yellowish white coconut leaves, containing wild flowers in various colours, rice, leaves, some fruit, biscuits and a cigarette. She would light an incense and offer it to her deity along with the canang sari placed on top of the tower, another one at its feet and one outside the main house door. 

Nyoman, our driver and tour guide told us that Balinese people both men and women have just 4 names based on the order of their birth, Wayan or Putu -the first born, Made - the second born, Nyoman -the third born and Ketut -the fourth born. If there's a fifth born - the order repeats! Wayan Balik or Wayan again/repeat and so on!

Like I mentioned before, people maintained lane discipline and there was some unspoken, strictly no honking rule. 

Bargaining was fun! Everyday we got bolder, bargaining for prices as low as we could go.We kind of became an expert by the end of our trip or so we thought!

The weather was beautiful! I expected it to be hot and humid as it is a coastal region, but the month of May was pleasant and not once did we feel itchy and sticky. In fact it was cloudy and rained too! But don’t skimp on sunscreen, because you are outdoors all day. Wear comfortable loose clothing or better still go with an empty suitcase and buy stuff there.   

Bali does not have tall skyscrapers like other Southeast Asian countries, but the old houses, narrow streets, huge statues of Hindu gods everywhere you see and culturally rich heritage gives this place an old world charm that can only be experienced.     

 

I felt our duration was shorter and I would have liked another couple of days to just leisurely go around the place a little more. We could not cover all the tourist spots, especially the Goa Gajah Caves, Ulun Danu Beratan Temple and the Ubud Palace for paucity of time. 

But Bali truly was one of my most favourite vacation spots. The long sand beaches, lush greenery, deep blue waters, glorious sunsets and wonderful people, all made Bali a quintessential paradise island!

Have you visited Bali? What was your favourite spot?  Tell me in the comments below.